The Snake

A surprisingly good route with a relatively reasonable approach and descent make this a route worthy of more attention. Four pitches of mostly crack climbing on generally good rock. Despite the longer distance, this approach has significantly less elevation gain and much more trail walking than routes on Symmetry Spire, etc.

P1- Start up below the left-facing corner with a 5.9 mantle to a ledge. Climb the corner/crack (5.9 to 10-) to broken rock within the "snake" feature. Belay (gear) near the top of the broken rock.

P2- Traverse ten feet right and climb the corner (5.8). Belay at a ledge with a fixed pin.

P3- Climb above the belay through some prickly vegetation. Make steep but secure moves through the wide crack (5.8, 3-4") above, moving slightly left and up to a sloping ledge. Climb up a handcrack to another ledge below the last pitch.

P4- Start up a handcrack to a sloping ledge, then transition to the jamming/layback crux (5.10). Belay on the ledge above.

From the west shore of Jenny Lake, hike to the Cascade Forks junction. Turn left, hiking into the South Fork of Cascade for about a half mile. After crossing a couple bridges, look for a rocky switchback with a clear view of the southern wall of Yosemite Peak. The "Snake" feature will be clearly visible just right of a gully. Leave the trail and cross scree and talus for 15 minutes to the base. Look for a left-facing dihedral leading into the "Snake".

About two to two and a half hours from the west shore of Jenny Lake.

Descent: From the top of the fourth pitch, scramble up to the next ledge system and then traverse left. Do not bypass this vegetated ledge. Traverse into the large gully. Descend the gully on the (skiers) right until you can exit the gully on grassy slopes. Work down and right until at the base of the cliff band, and traverse back to the start if needed, or descend to the trail. 30 minutes.

Singles 0.2-#4, with doubles in 0.5-#2, plus stoppers, felt like a comfortable rack for on-sighting.