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Peak Mountain 3

Black Mamba

FA See Individual Routes
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Description

A novel free climbing link up on the main peeler face! No new pitches climbed or freed, but the aid descriptions of the two climbs do not make a multipitch free climb obvious. A working name given for simple reference.

Pitch One: Black Peeler P1, 5.10-

A thin layback up a right arching flake to a slabby corner. Hand traverse left to a bolted anchor.

Pitch Two: Black Peeler P2, 5.10+

Continue left off the belay into a huge roof traverse right. The initial climbing is awkward but ends with thoughtful fun moves. Traverse to an anchor past the flake. Save the 000 for gaining the foot ramp

Pitch Three: The Serpent P2, 5.11- PG-13

Head back left and pull into the hanging flake. Initial moves transitioning from underclings to the layback give the PG-13. The rest of the flake is steep, pumpy, and reasonably solid. A 2'x8' ear feature was trundled recently taking the grade up slightly. Finish at an anchor with chains

2 raps with a 70m, or 3 with a 60m

Location

The first two pitches of the Black Peeler original route into the pasted flake pitch of The Serpent. Free climbing up the middle of the foreboding Peeler face.

Protection

Doubles to #3. Micros down to 000. Offsets helpful.

Save the 000 to protect the follower at the end of pitch 2