The Serpent

P1:

Traverse to a thin seam. Climb straight up to

Black Peeler

. Traverse right on

Black Peeler

to belay at a two-bolt station.

P2:

Traverse left and up a wide crack/flake (5.11a R). Belay at a two-bolt station.

This is a variation pitch to the

Black Peeler

. Downclimb the ramp from the

Peeler Direct

first pitch belay. Swing out the roof via bolts, then stretch for a placement. Climb the corner up to another ramp, then traverse to the second pitch anchor of the

Peeler Direct

.

Make sure to protect the second

when you leave the crack and free climb to the 2nd pitch anchor. Fun pitch, and a great, harder alternative to the

Peeler Direct

splitter.

Aid Rating

5.7, A3

Aid Rack

: I recommend 2 hooks, 10 heads, 4 cam blades (be delicate), 16 cams (0.3"-4"), 16 nuts (0.3"-1"), 64 carabiners & 16 runners (24").

In general, thin to medium pitons. Bring some mashies along, in the event that a fixed one pulls. Regular aid rack otherwise.

Free Rack

: I recommend 4 cam blades (be delicate), 16 cams (0.3"-4"), 16 nuts (0.3"-1"), 32 carabiners, 16 runners (24") & 2 brass testicles.