Reverse the Curse

6 stars? There are plenty of harder, more striking lines, but none that capture the absurdity of rock climbing more appropriately.  Share the first two bolts of Chicanery (the crack that ascends the right side of the buttress), but before clipping the third bolt, traverse left to the blunt arête, passing the infamous “shadow match,” a move seldom done except in deep winter gym sessions and circus tricks. Try not to let your giddy giggles punt you off as you desperately pull over the arête, then dance up immaculate holds on consistent technical climbing.  There are holds are right where you need them.  If you don’t like this route, you need to quit rock climbing.

Beta video:

youtube.com/watch?v=8l0258V…

This line ascends the left side of Andrew’s Playhouse, the 10 foot wide, 75 foot buttress that juts out of the ground like a giant refrigerator.

6 Bolts and shuts, #3 and #0.75 Camalots for runout at top