Chicanery

No one knows hows hard it is because it cannot be repeated the same way twice. Classic Cheat Canyon chicanery! This route will utilize every skill you have. Awkward chimneying leads to a smeary barn-door arête, then utilize crack climbing techniques, face climbing and arête climbing to surmount the flared crack. Avoid putting your feet on the sloping dirty ramp to the right of the cliff at the beginning. Stay on the rock for full credit.

This line ascends the right side of the buttress that is Andrew’s playhouse, and climbs the crack that begins midway up.

3 bolts and shuts, plus some gear