- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route is mostly a seam which opens up to take pro every body length. Its a heady lead but ends up protecting well. Just like the other routs in the area, it usually needs to be cleaned since it doesn't see the traffic that Y-crack does.
Location
This route is twenty feet left of Y-crack.
Protection
I take one set of aliens up to red, one hand-to-large sized piece for the bottom flare, and one set of stoppers. Alien offsets also come in handy on this one. Make sure to bring a small stopper to protect the crux which is a key hole like placement in a steep section of a groove. It is only a move or two to get past the crux before a finger tip sized stopper can be placed on the right side of the groove. A continuous finger crack then begins and runs all the way to the anchor. Ideally, you would want a green, yellow, and red alien to finish off the top third of the pitch. There is a bolted rappel anchor at the top and can be rappelled with one 60m rope.
Routes in Central Royal Arches
- 20Royal Flush5.10b/cTrad