Royal Arches (5.10- or 5.7 A0)

Royal Arches is considered by many to be one of Yosemite's all-time classics.

Commonly done at 5.7 A0 with a point of aid off a fixed line

, the route is easily freed at 5.10-. While the route weaves its way up an impressive band of rock at a relatively easy grade, there are other moderate climbs of superior aesthetic quality, but perhaps it earns it's classic status due to the history behind the climb, first negotiated in 1936, or the easy approach combined with an accessible grade, or the simple fact that it serves as the most effective approach to North Dome that makes the climb so popular... don't expect to be alone on this route.

Approach Royal Arches from the Ahwahnee parking lot. The most heavily traveled trail, well right of Serenity Crack, is likely to be the correct trail. The start of the climb is in a chimney in the back of a huge left-facing corner. The highlights: Climb up the chimney past a chockstone (5.6). Make a long 3rd class traverse on ledges to the right. Climb a steep, polished ramp/groove (5.5). Once again, traverse right on 3rd and 4th class ground -- do not be tempted to start climbing up the face or corners, continue right as far as possible. Eventually head up on a 5.7 finger crack. At this point, follow the chalk and clean rock up various crack and ledge systems for several pitches, eventually ending up in a left-facing corner system. At the top of this corner system there is a bolted anchor on the face from which a 30' length of fixed line is attached. Clip this for pro, and either pendulum left or climb left (two moves of polished 5.10-) to a ledge system. Follow this way to the left. Climb up either side of a giant hollow flake, then step left to some tree climbing to a belay alcove. Step around a corner to the left and continue up on low angle 5.6-5.7 terrain. Just below the headwall and roof systems, continue traversing left following the line of least resistance. One pitch climbs through some dirt mounds. Shortly after there is another traversing pitch with a two bolt anchor -- make note of this if you plan to rappel. One more traversing pitch finishes the climb -- this one can feel a bit sketchy compared to the rest of the climb. Traverse high for gear in a dirty undercling, or traverse low to clip a lone bolt. Either way beware of pine needles on the slab. This pitch is strange in that it seamlessly merges into an actual trail into the woods... kinda cool.

Other miscellaneous notes:

*Topping out involves following the trail left and then up.

*Right where the climb ends there is a great spring with water that is safe to drink -- you can't miss it.

*Sleep in! There are numerous places on the climb to pass or be passed.

*The rappel route is fast and effective and can be done with one or two ropes. I highly recommend consulting with the SuperTopo guide for specific details on the locations of the rap stations.

*The walkoff is via the North Dome Gully. For parties only doing Royal Arches (and not doing another climb on North Dome), the raps are the way to go. For parties continuing on to North Dome (or for climbs on the Washington Column), the Gully would be much faster.

Standard rack.