Kloeberdeath/Candallegro

The roof wall area on the Redgarden Wall holds the testpiece '

Psycho

', and is the steep, 80 foot, brown face capped by an obvious, 5-8 foot roof. The rock continues above the roof to the Upper Meadow of the Redgarden Wall. The roof wall is located at the base of the lower Ramp, and is best approached on the normal Redgarden Trail. This area is popular in the winter months because it can warm quickly in the sun and, protected by the overhang, is usually dry.

Locate '

Kloeberdanz

' at the right edge of the overhang band, where it begins in a somewhat dirty-looking, right-facing corner beneath a striking arete formed by the edge of the roof. It is uphill from '

Touch 'n Go

' and downhill of '

Guenese

' and the other roof routes.

After turning the '

Kloeberdanz

' roof, you immediately launch onto the arete that constitutes the end of the roof wall proper. Rob added a bolt after the first ascent to protect this strenuous section. Getting established onto the face seems to be the main crux. There is difficult climbing on the face about 40 more feet to the '[[Guenese]105748780' belay.

6-8 QDs, wires, #3 Friend. There is a good bolt at the

Kloeberdanz

roof, and a bolt along the underside of the arete to protect those moves onto the crux face above, which is also bolted.