- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a very cool sport (read: sporty) route that climbs through the sea of bulging rock right of the crux pitch of
The Wisdom
and left of
Hands in the Clouds
. The route name, a double entendre, is both a reference to the potential for big air on one of the route's cruxes and Cameron Tague's good-natured jab at the route's detractors, who griped that it was too close to
The Wisdom
when it was put up.
Climb
Temporary Like Achilles
and aid through the roof (or try Undertaker if you feel like pulling on what's left of the holds!) to a double-bolt belay over the lip. The route goes more or less up and left from the belay, passing two bolts on the vertical plaque before tackling a crux bulging section with two more bolts. Finish straight up on the easy corner above the crux of
The Wisdom
to a shared double-bolt anchor. Two rappels get you back to the ground, or finish out on Psycho Slab.
Protection
Some small wires and TCUs can be used to supplement the bolts.
Routes in Redgarden - Roof Routes
- 14Huck Off5.12bSport · Trad