Ruby Tuesday

Pitch1: Fun climbing up the right side of the pillar leads to it's flat top.  Work up and left past several bolts (10a) to a cave feature. Stem around this interesting hole on easier ground and up to the 2 bolt belay.

Pitch2: The first 30 feet of this pitch is not terribly wonderful. About 5.5 or 5.6 lower angle foolishness leads to an amazing offset seam on the right side of the arete above.  This seam is stellar with 2-3 5.10 sections.  When the seam runs out, fantastic and steep good edges and three finger pockets (only 5.9) lead over the top bulge to the anchor.  Very very airy, absolutely cool and worth working through the first section of the pitch.

A 60m rope will not get you down from the top, you'll need to do 2 rappels. A low angle area immediately above the first belay may have some dust and small stones that may be pulled down when you pull the top rappel.  Kristi and I experienced a little dust but nothing dangerous. You can scope it out when you come down. You should always be wearing a helmet anyway, but I'm just warning you.

"...There's no time to lose, I heard her say. Catch your dreams before they slip away..."  The Stones

About 30-40 feet right of Requiem for a Nun is a pillar.  The route starts up the right side of this puppy.

About 12 clips for the first pitch, about 14 clips for the second pitch.  Ring anchors at belays.