Requiem for a Nun

It's best to do this route in two pitches or the rope drag will be bad.

Pitch 1: liebacking and finger jamming with judicious footwork follows the right trending seam to the route's crux (11a or b I think: could be harder or easier, I can't tell anymore), a wicked pinky finger jam (tape the right pinky and ring finger recommended) and reach for a good pocket.  Swing out right and up the pockets till back in the crack.  A reachy crossthrough up and left leads to steep but easy pockets proceeding to a ledge and a three bolt semi-hanging belay. A physical pitch.

Pitch 2: step right and then up pockets that get sparser and thinner as you proceed.  Around the 5th bolt, a wild smearing crux (10a or b) up and left gets you stood up in a dish.  Regain composure and smear/edge right, then up.  Thin edging and some pockets lead to a 3 bolt semi-hanging belay up there in space.  A cool, intricate face/smearing pitch. Some people have expressed the opinion that the second pitch is harder than the first pitch.

Can rappel to the ground from the top with a 70m rope.  With a 60m rope you can rappel from the top to the first belay (rings installed) and then to the ground.

For personal reasons, mainly in overcoming neurological problems (I was paralyzed from the neck down for several months the year before with Guillan-Barre Syndrome), I feel this is the best route I've put up in the Sinks.

From US Blues, follow a faint trail along the cliff base up and down for a good ways to a flat area in a protected alcove by a huge boulder near the east end of Aspen Grade Wall.  The steep, right trending seam is the route.

About 25 bolts total. 12-16 bolts for each pitch. Don't remember exactly. Well protected at any rate.

Rappel rings at first and second anchors.  Recommend 2-3 regular length runners for the first anchor to equalize.