- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a great route in my opinion (all pitches).
Start about 20 feet left of the route
Lover's Leap
. Look for a blocky face with bolts.
P1. Follow the bolts up a steep slab. Turn a crux overhang (9+ or 10a), and continue up to a 2-bolt anchor, great, 5.9++. You can place a blue Alien just before the crux bulge and a black Alien to protect the final moves to the anchor.
From here, you can traverse right and continue on the route
Lover's Leap
. Or else continue with the Unknown route if you are comfortable with runout climbing:
P2. Approximately 5 feet right of the belay is a shallow, left-facing inside corner with a knifeblade below a bulge about 10 feet up. Ascend the corner to the pin, clip it for fun, and move up another foot or so to a stance and place some pro (possibly "S"). I was able to get a fairly good yellow Alien and a #4 Loweball. Pull the bulge (approximately 5.8) to some easier, well-protected ground above. Climb to a large, sloping ledge. At this ledge, there are two terrible bolts and a good slung flake - this is an optional belay. Climb up the ledge to the left to a left-facing dihedral. Climb the dihedral to a roof with good holds and a little loose rock, this is with no pro and about 40 foot runout (5.7 VS). Above the roof is some good pro and well-protected 5.9 crack/ face climbing. Climb to the end of the crack, and traverse right to a 3-bolt belay, great, 5.9.
P3. You can easily traverse right to the finish of the standard route. Better yet, climb up and left on sparse protection to a large ledge. Above the ledge is a small roof, find a thin vertical seam, place some small gear, and pull up on to the steep face above. Ascend straight up the face past diagonal cracks for gear and a little lichen to the top, fabulous finish, 5.8+.
Protection
The first pitch is bolted (8-9 bolts plus a blue and black Alien); the second and third are trad and runout.
Routes in Lover's Leap
- 8Unknown5.10aSport · Trad