Original Route

This is a route that was put up by either the US Army or CMC climbers around 1930 according to the book, "

South Platte Rock Climbing

" by Peter Hubbel and Mark Rolofson.

I climbed this route not too long ago, and it is a pretty good lead for a starting trad climber. Protection is easy to find, and the climbing is not very difficult. Just make sure that you stay on route, and don't venture too far off to the Southwest while on the face, if you head that way you can get onto some much harder routes. Overall, it is a good route with solid holds and good pro, and it is easy to retreat off of in the event that you need to. Once you get to the top descend the east face, or rap.

Per

Wes B.

: P1 - follow blocky ground up and left to a small tree (very dirty). Pass the tree on the left to reach a some slab climbing to a two bolt anchor (165').

P2 - follow slabby, Flatiron-esque climbing to a notch where you encounter a short crux section (5.6), and belay at the top of the pitch (100').

The route starts on the far northeast side of the face. You scramble up some easy 3rd Class terrain past some bushes to a ledge where you start from. The climbing follows an obvious system of ledges and left and right facing corners. The second belay stance is on a ledge about half way up the climb. Once at the top you can probably find enough anchors to rappel down but if you don't want to take the time to set a rappel just walk down the northeast ridge.

Per

Wes B.

: from the stream, ascend a steep slope and some talus to the low point of the rock. Follow a trail east for 100 yards to an "arete" (see photo). The route climbs the left side of this "arete".

A standard rack, some wider gear might not be a bad idea.