Heavy Hors D’Oeuvres

This is a classic intro to Suck Creek nailing. In my opinion much easier than other routes sharing similar grades. Probably A2 at best unless you do the direct top out which is solid A3. It has good free climbing and fun steep nailing on secure rock. This was not the case for the FA team as the cairn below the route was constructed from materials that fell off during its development. Those were the heavy os Pitch 1 Choose between a couple starts to gain the main crack system. Follow this until under the garage door sized flakes and trend left underneath of them. The anchor is slightly hidden over a bulge just left of the flake system. Belay at a bolt and a fixed nut. 5.10 Pitch 2 climb right off the belay nailing through roofs with some loose rock but over all good compared to other “tough” aid routes at the suck. Keep following steep features straight up and right of belay eventually gaining a vertical seam of high quality orange rock that will deposit your onto a large ledge A3 Pitch 3: Either trend left and nail out the steep and loose roof section for added bonus points earning the A3 grade proper or cut right to a corner system that gains a slot and continues to the top. Either A3 or 5.9 Once on top meander climbers right along the top of the cliff line keeping an eye out for an obvious gulley. Follow this gulley down and skiers right as low as possible where you can rap with a sing 70m. There is red cord currently wrapped around a couple small trees on an exposed ledge. Be ready to back this up as I have already replaced it once and tied off several spots where rats/mice keep chewing through it. Double 60s and you can rap from higher up.

Located west down the wall past lay away plan where the wall gets tall again. Large cairn at the base. See picture of pitch 1

I had a 4 and a 5 with me but don’t recall really needing them or using them. Double rack 00-3, nuts/tricams, 2 medium beaks, a couple knife blades, a lost arrow or ball nut, either 2 60meter ropes or a 70m.