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Peak Mountain 3

Kaboom

FA Forrest Gardner & Chris Chesnutt
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch 1 To the right of Little Tree there is a shallow dihedral which is the start of some good free climbing. Climb this corner to a horizontal and shift left into a nice finger crack. Follow the short but perfect finger crack to another horizontal with a bulge above. Mantle onto this and work through the orange face to a large ledge with bolted anchors. Pitch 2 Climb straight up from bolted anchors aiming for the left side of the roof system where there are two roof cracks on either side of a face. I’ve heard varying stories to this pitch after I climbed it. One is that Chesnut freed this pitch the other is that he aided it... I could see it going free and would imagine approaching the wider offwidth on the left for this as I did although large gear is a must. I did not have any big gear and aided the face on rurps and small brass eventually gaining the crack on the right side. This would be an easy pitch to aid with large cams. On the ledge walk left to a bolted anchor. Pitch 3 From the ledge free climb straight up through large loose blocks to the base of steep roof. Break out the hammer and have at it. Set an anchor in the trees. Rap skiers left from the route with doubles or maybe a 70m?

Location

This climb begins to the right of Little Tree

Protection

A few rurps and small beaks, a dozen or so pieces of iron (blades, arrows, medium beaks) and a sky hook. Double up on cams 00-2, big cams (4/5/6?) for the wide pitch but can get by with trickery, nuts, maybe some extra small cams? Don’t remember placing a ton of units