- Edit (TBD)
Description
As you face the cliff, this route is towards the left end. Keep walking left until you see a non-generic crack with a small A-shaped roof almost half way up the line. You won't miss it - it's striking. This crack starts wide, goes to fist-large hands in a flaring slot, hits the small roof and then leads to less than favorable sizes until you reach the anchor ledge. The business above the roof is mainly a steep section with thin hands to rattly fingers until you are just about at the ledge. This climb is nice because it varies in size and it actually has a few nice face hold on it. It's not a bad choice for the beginning 11- Creek leader.
Protection
This route has a nice fixed anchor at a small ledge roughly 90 feet off the deck. You can belay from up here if someone is seconding the route. For gear, bring a set of cams from #1 to #5 Friends. Doubles are only needed for 1.75, 2 and possibly the 2.5 and 1.5 Friends (bring triples if you're worried). There are also a couple opportunities for large bomber stoppers.
Routes in Battle of the Bulge Buttress
- 8Crack Attack5.11-Trad