The Moon Also Rises (original var.)

This shares the same first half with

The Moon Also Rises (Finger Lickin' variation)

but they differ on the last half, ending at two different anchors, require very different techniques & racks & (IMHO) are of different difficulties. Because of this, I felt the variations are worth separate pages to avoid confusion. For example, the guidebook & MP call for many #1 C4s, which I called B.S. on for this variation. I'm glad I left those behind!

Start in the wide splitter and climb it all the way to the top, eventually squeezing into a chimney. There is a silly drilled angle that is after an unprotectable squeeze section, but at a spot where a #5 C4 protects nicely. The nice new anchors require an airy traverse back out from the depths of the chimney but the moves are secure.

Kelley's guidebook's wording is unclear if this is 5.11- and the Finger Lickin' Good variation is 5.11. I thought this felt more like old school 5.9 to me, and both me & my friend (with smaller hands) thought the thin hands variation felt more like 5.11-.

With a tension traverse you can switch from the top of one route variation to TR the other route.

Left of Swedin-Ringle and right of Mystery machine and the unnamed 5.10.

C4: 1x#2, 3, 4, 3x#5, 1x#6. Opt. 1 extra #5 & #6

Bring a couple of slings for the last piece or two deep in the chimney. Maybe one for the drilled angle, but it is at a strange place where you are well protected with #5 cams, so why bother?

Route is good for sliding #5s, so you could get away with fewer and still keep it from being too runout if you're careful.