Oompa Slab

This is the promising looking slab up above and to lookers right of the Golden Ticket/Fizzy Whiz Arete, where the shale and quartzite form a very loose gully and hanging ledge, above some lurking rocks and tangled roots/tree system.   If you want to do this before the groundwork gets done, I suggest beginning the climb from the Golden Ticket belay perch and/or below that perch on the ground, and traversing right into the slab.   There is adequate natural protection along the entire traverse and then the slab itself spaces that out a little bit more.  There is a single bolt in the 2nd shield, tri-cams work great below that, and the climbing is easy enough above this that the sporadic and small gear is sufficient.

This slab is excellent and easy and can basically be climbed anywhere.  It takes some effort to “climb” the more technical line as it is very easy to just climb the gully to the left.  Therefore this is an example of “Texas Harvesting”.

Until the ledge/belay area gets stabilized and worked in, I highly suggest belaying from the top either from a hanging stance off the anchors or simply by sitting on the top.

There are many variations on the slab.

2 min up Windy Canyon from the Aquaduct trail, the first rock buttress encountered is the Chali and the Toprope Factory wall—Oompa Slab is the right side of this wall.  It is best viewed from slightly upcanyon.

Tri-cams for horizontal placements, small to medium nuts, nothing bigger than 2”, and a single bolt, chain anchors.