We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

5th Grade Bully

FA G.Kaplan, Mar 2020
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is the leftmost route from the Highline Hang Ledge.   It is a bit “sporty”.  The crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts and is essentially a dead point if climbing the bolt line—however, it seems possible to run from the bully and dodge away to the right—fight or flight!  Possibly easier 5.10 if done that way, but a spicier, swinging leap around the arete should you succumb.   Belayers pay attention!   It is also possible to plug some gear here to the right if desired, although extra length runners are advised should you try and run from the bully.

Location

10-15min hike into Windy Canyon via the Granite Flume/aqua duct trailhead on excellent trail.   Once at the base of the Chali and the Toprope Factory area, continue upcanyon until the 2nd gully system on the left.   Scramble up for about 150’ 4th and easy 5th class low angle gully/slab until a large chockstone can be passed on the left.   This takes you to “the Hang”, aka Highline Hang Ledge.   Very pleasant after 2pm.   Sometimes the Highline “Dreams” is fixed but those anchors are actually in the next gully upcanyon.

Protection

7 bolts plus chain anchors, possibly some smaller cams or nuts if desired