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Peak Mountain 3

South Ridge

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Description

We climbed this as a part of a larger link up in the area. It provided excellent rock for a few pitches of moderate terrain linking to a loose scree (or snow) scramble to the true summit. The route starts at a low point in the south ridge skyline as seen from the glacier. Approach via the flank of the glacier, this slope can be steep and exposed firn, crampons mandatory. The first pitch climbs an obvious crack up the face to the u notch on the ridge. The second pitch climbs excellent cracks on the opposite side of the ridge up to the knife-edge crest. 2 more entertaining pitches of classic B-Basin knife riding bring you to a short downclimb. From here the ridge is quite broad, and when melted will be loose scree. The terrain from here to the summit is mellow scrambling. Descend the east ridge.

Location

The south ridge is the left skyline as viewed on the standard e ridge camp approach.

Protection

Single rack to 2