Klawatti Peak SW Buttress

This is 1-2 hour moderate rock route in the viscinity of Eldorado.

Look for the route on the SW side of Klawatti immediately adjacent to the camping spots (about 48.5529, -121.1062). Cross the moat and ascend 2-3 short low 5th class pitches. Scramble the remaining distance to the summit being sure to test holds for loosness.

Descend by down climbing or rappelling the same way you came up. Alternatively, you can down climb the peak and traverse north through a gully to The Smokestack. Circumnavigate clockwise around The Smokestack until you reach some grassy ledges. Follow them down until you are on the north ridge and decend until you can step on Klawatti Glacier. Follow the glacier and ridge down until you reach the rappel station that will give you access to the McAllister Glacier.

Note: You will need a backcountry permit from the Marblemount Ranger Station for the Inspiration zone to camp in this area (

nps.gov/noca/planyourvisit/…

). They will also probably stick you with a bear canister.

Use the Eldorado Creek approach as described in the Eldorado Peak Climbing page. Follow directions to either the East Ridge camp or camping spots south of Klawatti. The SW Buttress is minutes away from the Klawatti camp.

Crampons, ice axe, pickets, and glacier gear for the approach. Single rack to 2", 60m rope, slings for anchor building.