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Peak Mountain 3

Seams Beyond

FA Drew Spaulding w/ John Slezak, Christian Ball- April, 2010
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

"Seams Beyond-5.10bR" is not pumpy, but technical and heady.

Hair City

-esgue! Start up the 1st crack encountered after the T2 pin traverse,(5.9 bulge), then traverse rightward under a large,loose "suitcase-size block" to step up on to the next diagonal ramp. Step over right even more to some solid jugs. Super thin gear at your feet but dubious (15' from last piece out rightward). Pull out the bulge and place 2 good nuts in a row (5.8), then start traversing 15' to the left on a solid hand rail of buckets.... #1-red Camalot protects a slot just before traversing left on this line of jugs. Now you've reached the TCU-nut crack that brings you another 15' straight up. Place that last nut and climb the "City of Rocks Jugs" until you have to do a slightly run out mantel (5.10a section). Then step up to the wide, diagonal crack and climb straight up. Another few placements and you come to a fairly clean looking crux up a thinly protected face. Don't step out left into the obvious corner! Step up right to find a thin RP seam with fingertip holds. Still thin climbing to a horizontal TCU seam, then finish the crux to finally easier ground. Killer jugs to an occasional placement bring you to the top (5.7R-60')

Protection

Standard Eldo rack. Many thin placements (RPs recommended) 150' pitch to gain the ridge of the Tower Two. There is a slung rappel anchor there to descend down toward the East Slabs Descent.... Or continue to the top to find another slung rappel anchor....


Routes in Redgarden - Tower Two


  1. 37
    Seams Beyond
    5.10b
    Trad