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Peak Mountain 3

T2 Direct Finish

FA FRA David Light, 1980s
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This pitch has some adventurous climbing on a seldom visited face. If lichen and runouts are not your thing, you should probably traverse off on the standard finish.

The direct finish starts right at the end of the final, 5.9 pitch on

T2

. From the belay nook, traverse slightly left and find the best spot to pull through the roof. A marginal 0.5/0.75 cam can be placed before pulling through on positive holds. Wander up the face on positive but sometime lichen covered holds to the obvious roof crack. Finish up on easier terrain. The descent off the top of tower two is a little tricky, the obvious solution may lead to a dead end. (4th class)

A great 7 pitch 5.9 linkup starts on

Touch & Go

, traverses to

Jules Verne

, climbs upper

T2

, and finishes on this pitch. You could also lengthen the linkup by climbing

Body Tremors

and

Smoke & Mirrors

to the summit of Tower One.

Location

The Direct Finish heads straight up after the 5.9, overhanging talus pitch on

T2

.

Protection

Gear to 3".


Routes in Redgarden - Tower Two


  1. 34
    T2 Direct Finish
    5.9
    Trad