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Peak Mountain 3

Vacillation Exit

FA Rob Kelman, Jim Brink, 1981
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The guidebook calls this a separate climb, but to get to it, you have to climb the first pitch of Hesitation or

Serpentine

, move right, and climb

Rag-Tag

(see that entry), which will dump you at a nice cove below a huge chockstone.

Chimney around the chockstone on its right side - easier than it looks with good protection. Go through one more easy bulge for the grade using a combination of techniques. For the crux bulge, I found it protected well with a 4, 3.5, and a sloppy 6 after the move, but it was not necessary. I got into the pod via a nice face foothold on the left side, but that might be tall person beta. My crux was getting through a tight section, where I could rest on a chickenwing pretty well but really struggled to move my heel toe up because of the tightness. I would put all my effort into moving up 1/2 inch and just come right down. I finally scooted out far enough to get my foot up. Face climbers could probably just yard on the crimp, like my partner did. I am pretty sure there are no anchors, we descended through the labyrinth (same descent as Labyrinth if you climb P2), eventually finding the Glenda's anchors.

Kelman calls it 9+, and Orenczak  calls it 9. I got through it clean (barely), so I am going with 9.

Protection

A standard Vedauvoo rack, though you could probably get away with nothing bigger than a 4.