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Peak Mountain 3

Accendo Lunae (LiB/West Face Var.)

FA Blake Harrington, Scott Bennet and Graham Zimmerman, 2012
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

FA information

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This climb is basically a two-pitch variation that connects Let it Burn and the West Face. P1-4 and most of P5 are the standard Let it Burn, then two pitches (.12- and .11-) lead to the West Face finish.

P1 (5.8) - Climb a ramp to a thin splitter crack, then to a tree belay.

P2 (5.10+) - Climb another (short) splitter, then walk left to a second tree belay.

P3 (5.12-) - Ascend a few 5.10 cracks, then past a 5.11 slot with a fixed pin. Crux is the two bolts moving left (.12-). Belay with one bolt and gear in a finger crack.

P4 (5.11a) - Hands and fingers crack to crazy knobs and double crack. Belay at a fixed pin and a bolt.

P5 (5.11+) - Climb a flare crack that becomes a layback. Belay on 1" gear on a rightward bench.

P6 (5.12-) - Climb a difficult flake and crack sequence. Belay in the chimney just right of a razor flake.

P7 (5.11-) - Tips V-slot to a roof, then to a corner.

P8 (5.11+) - Handcrack to a roof.

P9 (5.10) - Climb overhanging chimneys to a large ledge.

P10 (5.6) - Easy 300 feet leads you to the summit.

Location

Start as for West Face

Protection

Doubles to 3". Gear is rumored to be excellent.