Scarface

This line climbed in August 2010 is several hundred feet to the right of the old NW Buttress line. It may connect with that terrain higher up for the last couple moderate pitches.

P1-2: (as described in Cascades Rock) are relatively clean, although potential for loose/breaking rock is still there. The second pitch involves a sustained steep handcrack and awesome exposure.

P3: there is a tempting finger crack directly above the belay; there were two large, sharp flakes to its left that could easily cut the rope or fall onto the belayer. The traverse left on the ledge above is simple enough, but must be executed very delicately, as numerous loose blocks from fist to cooler size are resting on it.

P4: There are a few large, loose blocks between the fixed piton at the start of the pitch and the left edge of the large roof. One thigh-sized block is sitting next to the hand crack above the slab. There are plenty of other medium-large rocks sitting there that should be removed only when you can be sure no one is beneath you. Around and above the roof was cleaner, and from the top of P4, there was only one rock we threw to the north side of the mountain.

P5+: The finishing pitches are blocky and not so loose.

Up the gulley to the left of the West Face route. This terrain can be very loose and exposed!

RPs, 2x #2 TCU - #3 BD, 1x #00 TCU & #4 BD

(See topo)