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Peak Mountain 3

Steppin in the Slide Zone

FA Ray Ringle, John Steiger
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

pitch 1, good solid climbing to bolt and crux (5.11-) shortly after allows a non threatening swing. Continue to low angle/ledge area to belay. Escape to Crab Corner is possible here.

Although you can do it as one pitch, I'd recommend belaying mid pitch to keep the leader on R from hitting the ground (as I was witness to).

pitch 2 !!!!! stiff climbing (5.10-/10) with VERY, very hard to place pro (I got FOUR brass nuts including two #2 HB offsets) before reaching the crummy bolt (1/4" Leeper as of 1997). This is a very traditional old school lead not for the faint of heart up open territory. I would advise leading the route in the shade over direct sun.

Location

left of Rich and Dave route, 3rd route downhill from Mean Mistreater.

Protection

stoppers, cams to 3", and multiple brass nuts INCLUDING two #2 HB brass nuts at minimum.

Bolts and top-anchors updated by CASA in 2017.