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Peak Mountain 3

Mordor

FA Greg Barnes, Joe Denicola, Linda Jarit, 9/08
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Damn fun route that puts you on one of the finest summits in the Meadows.

P1 Choose between a 5.6 ow, a 5.8 dihedral, or a 5.9 corner that all end at the same spot

P2 To the right is the gorgeous red, orange, and grey ow corner of Stomper. You can take this or go for the slammer 5.8 hands to the left. Belay under a huge roof system.

P3 Once again to the right is Stomper going up a heinous, hard, and crumbly 10a flare. Instead go straight up into a brushy face with a right facing corner and a massive roof to the left. Find the bolt, traverse to the corner, face climb/lb past the very short ow, undercling the the 10c crux roof way out in space. Then turn several overlapping roofs up easier ground to a ledge. This unique and super exposed pitch makes this route worthy.

P4 Choose your own adventure up easy 5th to the summit.

Location

Same approach as Hobbit Book. Before the trail turns to ledges.

Protection

.5 to 3". Optional #6 if you want to destroy yourself with ropedrag for the crux roof and beyond. Better to just trust the brand new bolt a few feet below you.