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Peak Mountain 3

Valinor

FA Brandon Adams, Chris Gay, Eric Farrugia, 2019
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A new route that sports quality and varied climbing with modern hardware and reasonable protection (most certainly by Tuolumne standards).  The route starts from the ground up and right of Euro Trash. It climbs cracks and bolt protected face to the summit of Mariuolumne to the right of the ultra-classic Hobbit Book.

Approach by way of 4th class scrambling to the base of the first pitch left facing corner. From the gully it is something like 150ish feet of scrambling up ramps and ledges to the base of the route proper. There is a bolt at the base of the first pitch, it serves as anchor and route marker.

Also possible to start on Hobbit Book and traverse into the finger corner start of pitch 3. Conversely, you could also climb the first two pitches of Valinor then finish on the last two pitches of Hobbit Book.

1st pitch: 5.7, 180', Climb the left facing corner via fun liebacking and jamming. Step right to bolt and easy face climbing to ramp and ledge with 2 bolt anchor.

2nd pitch: 5.10b, 160', Climb 5.8 knobs past 2 bolts to a corner and ledge. Climb easy face to crack systems around and past a cool orange bulge. Follow crack systems up and left past a bolt protected crux to a stance with a bolt and gear anchor. Make sure to extend your placements and mind rope drag.

3rd pitch: 5.10d, 120', Step left off the anchor to a finger crack through a beautiful orange corner. After, climb the knobby face above past bolts and various gear placements. This pitch largely follows the arete of the Hobbit Book corner's right side. Quite cool.

4th pitch: 5.10d, 120', Overcome the bolt protected bulge with cool flake handholds and high feet, then work up and over another bolt protected bulge with more fun holds and high feet. Climb crack systems to a fun steep juggy section with another bolt. Trend up and left to surprisingly moderate climbing through a large roof system and the routes finish. Make sure to extend placements and mind rope drag.

4th class to the top.

20 bolts on this route. 13 protection bolts and 7 at anchors.

Location

Right of Hobbit Book

Protection

2x BD C4 .3 - .75, 1x BD C4 1- 3, 1x nuts, 12x slings