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Description
This route, like many other routes on the South Side, takes the easy 5.1 slab 300 feet to a large ledge. The third 5.8+ pitch is the real meat of the climb, and follows a gorgeous black water groove to the anchors.
While you are up on the ledge there are several other climbs of varying difficulty that start their crux pitches there as well.
Location
You can see the water groove from the base, it makes a plumb line down to the upper ledge. Take whatever route to get up there.
To descend, there are bolted anchors to rap the climb in three raps. You will need double ropes or a tag line for the bottom two raps.
Protection
Pitches 1+2: Whatever.
Pitch 3: A bit spicy. One bolt at 30 ft and a second at 50 ft protect the crux area. There also might be good gear in the flake in the first 10-15 ft, but it isn't of much use.