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Peak Mountain 3

Groove Licker

FA Shannon Milsaps, Ed Williams (Ground Up)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Easy climbing off the belay. Go straight into the very shallow groove and set a brown or blue tri-cam into the weird pod. Can also get a decent cam above this in an eyebrow (#2 yellow TCU maybe?). Continue slabbing up finding occasional finger sized pieces until you get to the first high bolt. Clip it and either continue straight up the face or trend left into the shallow groove. Marginal gear between the two bolts with an easy runout at the top.

We had a hard time finding the anchor, but when you get to the top trend hard right and there is a sketchy chain anchor equalizing two old bolts and a new bolt with a locker. Don't get suckered into one of the really old set of rap-less bolts.

Location

We stated up towards Gothic Groove and trended right. This put us at a random anchor in the face. We had to traverse right about 30-50ft to get to the start. The start is off an anchor with rapid links (the only anchor we found with links). You can also do the start of Pole Envy and traverse left.

Protection

Metolius 00-6 (BD X4 .1 to 1) and tricams from black to blue, two bolts to a chain anchor