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Peak Mountain 3

Floating on Gravel

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Description

This climb starts out as a scaly chosswidth, but it turns into quality climbing once you get through the first 15 feet or so. From the ground, climb the scaly but easy wide crack. The rock quality cleans up considerable once you reach the roof with a hand crack in it. You can clip a bolt on the 5.12 route TVOD at this point if you want. After pulling the first roof, work your way up the left arching 4" crack. Now you're under a roof split by two cracks ranging from about 1-3", with a surprising amount of exposure below you. Pull some very fun roof moves and you're pretty much done. The bolts out right didn't seem to work sell for setting up a TR so we built a gear belay above the lip and walked off the top once done(some additional shenanigans omitted). I know my description makes it sound utterly terrible, but it's worth checking out for the two roof cruxes and the 4" arching crack(if you're into that sort of thing).

Location

On the far left side of the Dark Side wall. This climb is just left of TVOD and Chasing a Snake(names painted at the base of the wall)

Protection

Recommended rack in new Camalot sizes: one #5, one or two #4s, two or three #3s, two #2s, two #1s, one #.75, and a handful of alpine draws. There are anchor bolts at the top of TVOD that you might be able to use, although that's not what we wound up doing.