This climb starts out as a scaly chosswidth, but it turns into quality climbing once you get through the first 15 feet or so. From the ground, climb the scaly but easy wide crack. The rock quality cleans up considerable once you reach the roof with a hand crack in it. You can clip a bolt on the 5.12 route TVOD at this point if you want. After pulling the first roof, work your way up the left arching 4" crack. Now you're under a roof split by two cracks ranging from about 1-3", with a surprising amount of exposure below you. Pull some very fun roof moves and you're pretty much done. The bolts out right didn't seem to work sell for setting up a TR so we built a gear belay above the lip and walked off the top once done(some additional shenanigans omitted). I know my description makes it sound utterly terrible, but it's worth checking out for the two roof cruxes and the 4" arching crack(if you're into that sort of thing).

Floating on Gravel

Wire Brush Hair Cut

D.O.A.

Good Friday

Physical Graffiti

The Virgin

Groveler

Promiscuity Crack

Safety Dance

This route begins with some interesting stemming and liebacking. After the second bolt, move up and right to the arete on big holds. The fourth bolt, which protects the crux, can be clipped from a nice stance. The crux itself is a neat boulder problem involving crimps, side pulling, and a tough move to a good right hand from which to clip the next bolt.

From here, things ease up, but not too much as you're left pumped and pulling up to a strenuous mantel before finishing on a slightly runout but easy slab.

It is also apparently possible to go out right at the crux on larger holds, bringing the grade down to 11b.

This is a fun crack climb ranging in size from fingers to thin hands.  After the initial crack you get a pretty good rest stance right before the crux at the top.

Stemmy moves down low lead to a step left, and then a nice finish on a fun finger crack.

Decent route. After the third bolt on God route go left. There is a large pocket over the roof. Don't fall near the chains, you'll be a little ways past the last bolt.

This route starts out with somewhat insecure moves straight off the deck, with the added bonus of a bad landing if you blow it before making the first clip. The climbing remains technical and sustained until a restful stance below the obvious crux of the route, the overhanging wall split by a tips-width crack. Clip the bolt(probably very hard to reach for short people), and go for it! Anchors are a body length above the crux bolt.

Another burly Dark Side sport route. The first few feet are pretty casual, but don't get too used to it. Once you pass that first bolt, you're working hard until you get your feet over the roof. There isn't much of a distinct crux on this route,  just pretty sustained 5.11 for the middle half of the route.

Follows a crack in a shallow R-facing dihedral to a stance before a right leaning finger crack which leads up a left-facing ramp through the crux. Lock and lieback to a stemming stance and clip the chains on the left.

One of the several bolted cracks at the Dark Side.  Excellent sustained finger and hand jams eventually take you to the interesting boulder-problem finish.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Dark Side