- Edit (TBD)
Description
The route starts above an obvious spire (the Praying Nun), on the east side of the obvious prow splitting the cliff. Scramble up and around left of the Praying Nun to reach "Stagway," a long ledge which runs from the prow of Nun's Buttress to the right. A 5.9ish direct start from below and right to reach Stagway is possible (edit: described well in several comments below).
The second pitch is a gem, as good as any 5.8 pitch I've done at Lumpy Ridge.
P1 - traverse out right onto an obvious, clean prow reminsicent of Cob Rock. Find 5.8 hand cracks on immaculate granite that lead to a belay ledge.
P2 - climb the left-facing corner and belay where convenient on the slab above (5.7 or 5.8 depending on the exact line).
P3 - head up a 5.7 slab which quickly leads to easier terrain and eventually the top.
Protection
Standard rack.