Friar's Frontress

This is a two pitch variation that climbs directly to the start of

Nun Buttress

and then goes left, adding some high quality climbing at a slightly more difficult grade.

I have only climbed pitch 1, as it is commonly used as a direct start to

Nun Buttress

. Pitch 2 is much less popular, as the climber will bypass the excellent first pitch of

Nun Buttress

.

Follow any of the approach options for Deer Ridge Buttress to the left side of the cliff, just west of the

Praying Nun

(the obvious pinnacle below the cliff). Begin at a pillar with a hand crack on the right side, and lieback flake on the left. There is a large pine tree at the left start.

Pitch 1 gains the top of the pillar from either side and follows finger cracks and flakes, trending up, then right. The climbing is sustained in the 5.8-5.9 range. Belay on loose, low angle terrain at the base of

Nun Buttress

.

Pitch 2 follows the left-facing dihedral to the left of

Nun Buttress

on the prow. Climb out the roof capping the dihedral (.10a), and follow a finger crack (.10c) to its end. Traverse right back into

Nun Buttress

.

Assuming you'll be continuing with

Nun Buttress

, add a few extra small cams to the rack, BD #0.2-0.4.