Hung Jury

P1, (5.10a, 115'): start off from the edge of 'The Beach' if the water is low enough, climbing up the low angle rock headed for the inset notch in the roof, targeting its right side, coming in from to the right of that. As you reach the notch, a few opportunities for protection present themselves to the right of a dirty and very questionable flake trapped in the notch of the roof. Take these as they come, and protect well before committing into the roof climbing. Avoiding that flake insofar as possible, climb up into the crux roof. Cracks to the left (1.5") and to the right (2.5") can both take gear, but to the right is more above previous placements and probably safer to protect. Turn the roof, gaining better gear and solid rock, and gain jam-cracks above the crux. Continue up the crack on easier climbing (5.6) to reach a good belay ledge. A shark's fin of a flake presents itself as a belay opportunity. Throw a cordalette over this, and belay just below a dark, slightly acute slot in a left-facing corner, that surprisingly is NOT P2.

P2 (5.moderate, 130'. junky): from the flake belay, traverse left below a bulge, leftward perhaps 3 meters to reach a crack and corner system. Protect here and head up, and then go up and and right. Pick your way past a series of slabs, cracks, and an occasional tree to reach a big slab before the summit of the rock. Build a belay, and bring up your partner.

To finish up, scramble to the summit (on belay or off) of the rock by traversing further off further to the North and West.

Cross the bridge from Castle Rock to Broken Rock, and take a right turn to head away from the road. In low water, a small beach-like bowl of flat earth lies just below this route. In very high water, a shallow pool is here, making the choice of a starting point more difficult.

Looking up, a broad roof band 10 meters or so up acts as a barrier between lower slabby climbing and the cracks above. A meter-wide incut through this where the roof has fallen away creates a notch with cracks on either side of it and a suspended death-flake in the center. This is the crux of the bottom pitch of Hung Jury.

Protection to a #3 Camalot with doubles in #2 and #3.