Sue's Song

Sue's Song is a climb with fun movement, but some questionable rock and questionable protection at the bottom make this ill-advised for a beginner trad leader or someone anywhere near their limit.

Start off on a huge crumbling flake on the ground that serves as a starting platform to get into the flake system. Consider if any of the gear you see is worth placing, and get up under the roof to look for more or better gear. Observe that there are flakes behind the flake at the entry to the main crack, that none of the rock is fantastic, and climb carefully with a careful belayer. A Screamer or other load-limiting device might be advised here.  As you pull the lip, a #2 Camalot in better rock can be exchanged for what would have otherwise been the best jam before pulling a crux.

Pull into the main crack, if you are clever, into a no-hands rest, and find another placement and easier climbing above.

Cruise on up more moderate climbing for another 40' to the bolted anchors as shared with

South Beach

, passing that route's bolts out on the right.

This climb takes the flake system through a left-facing corner and small roof immediately left of the start of

South Beach

, passing a few of that route's (retro) bolts to its (retro) anchor at the top.

Poor rock at the bottom and in the beginning of the small roof mean that you should approach this climb cautiously. Take a doubt self of cams from 1" to 3" and a few slings.

Just before pulling into the roof, you can set a #0.75 and a #1 Camalot, then reach up and put in a #2 on better rock for as you pull the crux. Then climb on on jams and cams through easier territory to the top.