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Peak Mountain 3

Quantum Entanglement

FA 2013 Mike Prince
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Great climb; don't let the wide crack dissuade you from tackling this one...But bring that big cam or two. Climb up the dual cracks as they undulate up and left, along a slab. One crack runs up to a left-facing corner before ending below an overhang; at that point, step left into the wide, broken crack leading into a chimney. Climb up chimney to a stance below the final, wide, steep crack. (V1) Climb up crack to the top. V1: reduces the grade to 5.6. Leave the chimney, traversing right out onto a steep face, and mantel onto a sloping ledge right of the wide crack. Climb up and left along a left-rising seam to rejoin the route as it tops out.

Location

This route takes the undulating wide crack system leading to a chimney beneath a final steep headwall with a wide crack running through/along a right-facing corner. It begins about 12' left of the end of the low point of the cliff. There is an obvious starter block set here.

Protection

Rack of cams 1/2" to 6". There is a two-bolt anchor on the left wall just below the very top of the cliff.