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Peak Mountain 3

Gamma Ray Arete

FA 2013
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route follows a strenuous line up and around the right end of the main face. Great climbing above, needs cleanup near the bottom. A critical pink Tri-Cam placement is the best gear for making the moves around the corner; nothing else we've tried works well in the thin crack above the bolt. Climb from near the right end of the base up easy slab, protecting in the vegetated crack to the right, to a stance by the right-facing corner beneath an overhang. Clip the bolt and make hard moves up and right, crossing that vital Tri-Cam placement horizontal crack, then swing around onto a tenuous, strenuous stance. A move up eases the burden, and a bit farther a big stance allows good gear for the final overhang move to the anchors.

Location

Right end of the low base of the cliff.

Protection

Bolt Anchors at top. Standard rack, with an emphasis on small cams - and of course, that all-important pink Tri-Cam.