War Drums

This is a great climb. I hope this one doesn't get "modernized" as it wouldn't be as fun without the fear factor.

The mental crux is getting to the first bolt, and the thinnest climbing is the section around the first 2 bolts. There is basically no gear until the first bolt, but the climbing isn't hard and you can get a small cam right bellow the bolt. From here up, there is plenty of tiny gear if you look for it. Small Aliens, C3s, pink tri-cams in flared horizontal slots. The biggest thing you need is a 0.5 C4 (purple). It goes in the only gear placement you can see from the ground.... After the 2nd bolt, things ease up and at a tiny twig of a tree you have to make a decision. You can head up right, which looks really easy, or stay to the left and move up into a steep pegmatite section. Only then will you see the last bolt a 1/4 inch button head. Hopefully you have placed some gear in-between the bolts? The steep part is fun and easy, but you never know when one of those big crystals will just fall off and you probably don't want to test that bolt! Head up to the tree and wonder if it will support your weight....

This route has some of the best rock on this crag. I think it was spared from the dynamite? Steep slab moves and easy face climbing with a touch of excitement.

This route is on the face just right of the big

Hummingbird

corner. Look for two bolts a ways up.

Small cams and 3 questionable bolts (1st 2 are 5/16" (this was an uneducated guess) with SMC hangers, the 3rd is a buttonhead). There are slings with links on a tree for an anchor. The tree is small and unhealthy looking.