- Edit (TBD)
Description
Easy (5.10) climbing leads to a no-hands rest below the roofed dihedral. Technical stemming and a hidden crimp get you past the first roof and into the crux. Micro-holds and more stemming maneuvers get you to the second roof. Gather your wits for some heads-up climbing and a couple of good holds on the arete with a jug sidepull allows you to clip and pull over the third roof and onto the upper headwall slab. More rests on the upper slab headwall allow you time to contemplate the final crux at the last bolt. Sidepulls, pinches, a sloper, and an optional kneebar will deposit you on the final section of vertical terrain that's pumpier than it looks.
Location
It is on the trail halfway between the Wasteland and Nappy Dugout. This route climbs the obvious dihedral between the Wasteland and the Nappy Dugout.
Protection
17 bolts. Chains and steel carabiners have been installed at the anchors. A 70 meter rope is required to lower off this route. The protection for this route was generously provided by the
Rifle Climbers' Coalition
Routes in The Wasteland
- 19Automatic Leg Spreader5.12cSport