Espresso

Originally touted as "steeper, longer and harder than

The Beast

," this route is merely longer. Nevertheless, it's a fun climb up a funky pillar-type feature, and has become pretty popular in recent years.

This is the second route from the right in the Wasteland, and is one route right of

Gunshy

(more or less the last route on the blue/grey sector of the wall). It has gold-shut bolts on it, and climbs over a small roof to start, then up a groove onto a pillar, and through a second roof to anchors.

Pull over the opening roof on square holds, then amble your way up the groove on cool features. As the angle steepens, the holds get smaller, until you must overcome the roof moves on bizarre pinches.

A second pitch climbs the friable corner above the anchors at 5.11, but is not recommended on busy days due to rockfall potential.

10-12 quickdraws