Northwest Ridge

This is a scenic, short, moderate rock route (albeit with a longish approach) of a neighboring peak of Eldorado.

Good bivy sites at 7800' overlooking the Inspiration Glacier.

Note: You'll need a backcountry permit from the Marblemount Ranger Station to overnight in the Eldorado Zone (

nps.gov/noca/planyourvisit/…

).

Using the Eldorado Creek approach as described for Eldorado Peak under Location (

mountainproject.com/v/dorad…

), attain the McAllister Glacier.

Head to a point just northwest of Dorado Needle (about 48.5508, -121.1394). You will see several gendarmes on the northwest ridge. Depending on snow conditions, steep snow and a moat may need to be crossed to get onto the ridge. 2-3 very short (< 25m) pitches on the ridge will get you to the summit.

Descend (down climb or rappel) the same way you came up, with a rappel (or down climb) of the snow pitch.

Rope (30m for short rock pitches, 60m if you want to rappel the snow pitch), 2 pickets (optional to protect the snow pitch through the moat), rack (a few cams to ~2 inches, small set of nuts, maybe tricams (pink/red/brown), 4 double length slings as there's lots of natural pro to sling)