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Peak Mountain 3

Direct Southwest Buttress

FA Mike Preiss & Mark Bunker, September 2006
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This 2 pitch direct start of the classic 1985 route is there for some who want a little harder day. After the approach gully for the standard sw buttress route just go strait up instead of going around to the right. We scrambled some 4th/low 5th rock for a little (Depending on the snow level) until 3 vertical cracks appear up and slightly left. climb the rightmost crack 5.8ish until forces you right via a small pillar with good pro(small cams) a few strenuous 5.10 moves mantle onto a large bench. pitch two continues strait up an awkward 5.8+ couple moves(was slightly wet when we did it) to some very fun blocky mid 5th rock to eventually join the 1985 route at the large white slabby rock.

Location

Follow the 1985 route up the rock gully.

Protection

add a couple thin cams and a couple mid sized cams(3 inches) to the rack you already have for the standard route


Routes in Dorado Needle