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Peak Mountain 3

East Edge

FA Bury - Solo, GU (2018)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

At over three hundred feet, the East Edge of Bigcone Rock is one of the longest routes on the Central Coast. The route follows the leftside edge of the formation for three pitches, topping out on the dramatic summit of Bigcone Rock.

Pitch One - 85ft, 5.7 PG

Climb directly to a bolt, through steep terrain. Once established on the edge, run it out past another bolt. A thin section and crack system leads to a 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch Two - 90ft, 5.7  PG

From the belay, head up and left towards the edge. A tiny cam can be used to protect this section. Follow the edge directly, passing two bolts, until reaching the hueco dotted face above. Climb through the huecos until you reach the bolted anchor. Its possible to walk off at this point via the gulley.

Pitch Three - 155ft, 5.6 PG

Continue on the edge directly. Unprotected 5.6 leads upwards and to the first pro, below a small conifer. The climbing gets easier higher up.

Belay from two bolts.

Getting down:

Make two rappels down Bigcone Buttress.

Location

Following the drainage into the canyon will take you directly to the base of the formation, and the start of the route. S

taying directly in the creekbed for the entire approach offers the easiest path. Leaving the creekbed will result in bushwhacking.

Once at the formation, look for a lone bolt, high on the obvious edge.

Start left of a tree, on steep jugs.

Protection

Single rack; tiny through midsize cams, stoppers.

All belays are bolted.