Bigcone Buttress

The crown jewel of the upper Sespe, and a standout for the entire county. As of this writing, the first pitch is the steepest, most technical crack in the Ventura backcountry.

Pitch One • Bigcone Roof • 5.11 75ft

Steep moves off the bat, protected by big cams. Fight your way up the small dihedral, then get in some small cams before cranking a bouldery first crux.

Climb into the alcove above and move right, placing more cams en route.

Above the alcove is the super steep roof crack. Jam your way out the roof and turn the lip.

Belay from two bolts.

Pitch Two • 5.7, 90ft

From the belay, head up and right toward the edge of the formation. A single bolt protects the face moves before reaching a crack. Follow the crack and then the buttress’ edge directly.

Belay from two bolts.

Getting down:

Rappel the route.

Hiking into Bigcone Canyon, head right along the base of Bigcone Rock upon reaching the formation. Continue along the base until you see the roof crack high above you.

General:

Double rack to #3 BD, one #4, one very large cam (#5 or #6 BD), several small cams.

Lower crux beta:

two or three small cams, placed close together, offer good protection. Three BDX4’s (or similar); one .1 and two .2’s.