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Peak Mountain 3

Yellow Belly

FA Jim McCarthy, Bob Larsen, Ken Prestrud, 1957. FFA: John Turner, 1958
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A wild climb with a fun overhang on the first pitch, and some exciting face moves and an awkward alcove on the second pitch.

Start about 20' right of Yellow Ridge, at a corner with a thin crack on the right face.

P1: Climb the thin crack and face to an overhang. Turn the overhang on the left to an arete. Climb a wide crack to a belay stance on the arete. 5.8, 70'.

P1 variation: The wide crack can be bypassed by traversing left, climbing a face, then moving back right above the wide section.

P2: Continue up the arete, then move left and up a thin face with poor pro to a cramped alcove below a roof. Turn the roof on the left (crux, good pro) and continue to the top. 5.8+ PG, 90'.

Protection

Standard Rack. I used a Ball Nut to protect the thin crack at the start of the climb. The wide crack at the end of P1 would need a very large cam (5") to protect it.