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MapDescription
This route has it all. It starts up a flared ear shape OW that feels hauntingly similar to "
Horn's Mother
" then blasts out diagonal/arching hands that gradually pinch to tips, you surmount a little step and tiptoe up a thin seam. Fantastic.
Location
This is left of the landmark routes at Sunshine. It's an arching crack with an ear at the start. There is a one bolt anchor and gear options to back up a TR. A rap off a slung tree gets you back to the base.
Edit to Add: The anchor has been upgraded to two bolts.
Protection
#4 Camalot down to green or yellow Alien. A couple RPs for the seam up top, I used a BD 4 and 2 RP and they were pretty good. Rap or lower from a two bolt anchor.
Routes in Sunshine Wall
- 10Arch Nemesis5.12bTrad