Standard Route

This climb is on the Sunshine Wall. To reach it, park in the larger parking lot, and follow an obvious trail. When the trail is fairly level and straight, start looking for a trail that takes-off to the right. Usually, there is a small cairn marking it. Slog your way up this trail for several more minutes until you reach the cliff. Head right and look for an obvious, chalked flake system with 2 bolts near the bottom. This is the route that has your name on it.

P1 (10+/11-) - hop onto a block, and access the flake system. Be wary of the polished foot holds as you clip the first 2 bolts. The crux is somewhere after the 2nd bolt. A 'bomber-as-you-can-get', small BD stopper can be sunk into the flake just about a foot and a half above the last bolt. Stopper the rest of the way up the flake system, then you reach a flared slot with a crack inside it. Don't worry, the flake system is mostly on really solid and thick rock, so your pro will hold. Also be careful of the large detached block at the top of P1. Here you will want to leave the crack and climb the face to reach the newly bolted anchors.

P2 (10+) - leave the belay ledge and follow the crack/slot system. This pitch is awkward but short. Take your time and think about it. Pull a small overhang and step up and right to belay. There is now a bolted anchor. Previously it was protected with probably a #1 and #2 Camalot, in an upward-facing crack.

P3 (8 or 11-) - take the path of least resistance to a heavily chalked undercling flake. You get a nice friction move above questionable gear before you reach the undercling if you're short. Either head all the way to the left of the flake and upwards to a ledge (8), or about halfway across the flake head straight-up to the same ledge (11-). Do what you can to avoid rope drag. I was told that Trout's book calls the 11- way 'R' and Hubbel doesn't show where the 'R' is anywhere on his topo. There is supposedly a bolted anchor.

P4 (9+) - this pitch definitely has some 'R' on it as you head right and up to your first bolt (8 R). After that, the bolts/pins are reasonably spaced as you face climb on many slanted holds. It was Eldorado-esque on granite. This pitch leads upwards and a angle left to an obvious ledge. It is a good idea to climb with doubles on this pitch for the sake of the second. Don't clip the left rope until the 3rd bolt. You can also supplement the protection higher with small cams and stoppers. There is plenty of nice face climbing throughout the pitch. There is supposedly a bolted anchor.

P5 (10) - this pitch is mighty fine. Go straight off the ledge and follow the initially easy crack system. The crack then angles up and left at about 45 degrees. It then leads into a ramped dihedral at its end, where you'll want to have nearby protection. ollow the dihedral to its top, and sneak up and right onto a huge ledge. Before you head to the anchors on your right, walk straight back and place a directional high in a crack, being sure to avoid placing in the loose block lower. There is supposedly a bolted anchor.

Descent - 2 50m ropes would probably get you to the top of the 3rd pitch as 2 60m ropes sure as heck do. If taking 20 50m ropes, you'll probably have to go to the top of the 1st pitch and do one single rope rappel to the ground. The route also looked like you could do it with 1 rope if you stopped at every anchor. 2 8.8 60m ropes are the way to go.

In no way was any pitch on this route generic and even my least favorite pitch (P3) was good.

To protect this route, bring 1 or 2 tiny stoppers and a standard rack up to a #3.5 Camalot. You could do it with nothing larger than a #3, however. There are decent rap anchors at the end of every pitch, except the 2nd. However, if you had to bail from here, you could easily traverse to visible anchors to the right as you face the rock. The route can be descended with 2 60m double rope rappels.

Eds. There are now supposedly bolted anchors up the entire climb.