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Peak Mountain 3

Hardpan Heroics

FA Tyler Phillips & Robbie Colbert with help equipping from Christine Balaz
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1. Classic. super fun, atypical Ibex. Really steep with a cool vein to pinch at the start, a dynamic toss up high, after that rely on slab skills to bring you to the 2 bolt anchor. 5.12-

Even if you just are looking for single pitch sport routes consider hiking here and doing this pitch.

P2. From nice stance climb up the wild wind scoops placing a TCU or two to a really nice ledge and 2 bolt belay, long slings helpful. 5.10a

P3. From luxurious ledge climb up obvious left facing corner placing all those big cams you humped up there, from the top of the crack pass 2 bolts to a dead vertical crux, troubling use of weird holds leaves you feeling "just in there" (hardmen/women need not apply), pass a few more bolts to the top. Slings helpful in the corner/crack, long, 5.12-.

When you get to the top you are on a separate "summit", walk north to locate the tequila and summit register, from here it is possible to rap down the north face or walk back over to the Hardpan Heroics for 3 raps back to the base.

Location

This route lies on the east face, easily spotted from the hardpan. On the topo note the ghetto arrows I drew in, these arrows are a gulley system that will lead you to the base. Walking the Moonbeam is about 100 feet from here too.

Protection

QD's, long slings, #1 metolius to #4 camalot (doubles on 3.5 or #4 camalot is nice).

Replacment slings for anchors if rappelling the route might be nice